Parsons Paris

Francesco Pastore: Thoughts on Legacy

What is the impact of heritage on collections today? How is tangible and intangible heritage experienced by fashion houses? How is sense MADE out of preservation by those who look at archives also keeping an eye on the economic advantages for the brand? Francesco Pastore, Head of Heritage and Cultural Projects at Schiaparelli and Parsons Paris class of 2017, clarifies these and other matters that matter.

BY IDA DE IOANNI

When Francesco moved his first steps within the fashion heritage field he had just recently completed a master in History of Design and Curatorial Studies at Parsons Paris. “The attraction to a career in heritage and fashion, particularly at Schiaparelli, stemmed from its vibrant blend of art, design, fashion, and lifestyle,” he tells. And indeed, established by Elsa Schiaparelli in 1927, the brand is renowned for its audacious and imaginative approach to haute couture, often engaging in collaborations with artists and creatives. “Elsa herself was a pioneer, redefining femininity with an eye always on the present”. Keeping well in mind the pioneering attitude of the founder and the core values of the fashion house, Francesco skillfully balances documentary research, historical preservation, pedagogical collaborations and the responsibilities of managing an archive as extensive as that of Maison Schiaparelli. All this while ensuring alignment with the swift production demands of a globally renowned brand. 

As impossible as it may seem to juggle the different challenges fashion archives go through in contemporary times, Francesco demystified the nuances of his work, elucidating the strategies that effectively communicate the importance of heritage preservation to those not necessarily immersed in the field, highlighting again how we should all keep heritage in mind when dealing with fashion.

Ida: Can you describe the role of heritage within the Schiaparelli brand and its impact on contemporary fashion production? How does Schiaparelli heritage influence designers’ research and creative practices today? Are there specific elements or principles that resonate strongly with current designs in your opinion?

Francesco: Heritage lies at the core of the Schiaparelli
brand, serving as a profound source of inspiration that permeates all facets of its operations. This foundational element captures the avant-garde essence of its founder, Elsa Schiaparelli, whose pioneering work incorporated elaborate embellishments, severe tailoring, and dramatic accessories. These design choices continue to profoundly influence the brand’s aesthetic and thematic direction even today.

In the realm of contemporary fashion production, Schiaparelli’s heritage is prominently showcased through distinctive elements such as surrealistic motifs and a pronounced emphasis on anatomical forms. These features, while not entirely encapsulating Elsa’s original scope of work, became highly recognizable during a critical period of the house’s evolution, transforming into quintessential symbols that are now synonymous with the brand.

Moreover, Elsa’s exceptional tailoring, once hailed as the pinnacle of Parisian fashion, together with her innovative use of materials and a commitment to precision, remain integral to the brand’s heritage. […] This meticulous preservation and innovative incorporation of heritage ensure that Schiaparelli remains a vibrant and relevant force in the ever-evolving fashion landscape.

In industries where monetizable aspects are extremely important, and being archives’ economic outcomes not always immediately clear, what are some of the key difficulties you face in making the heritage field relevant to the industry?

Archiving and the preservation of heritage, while
crucial, do not yield immediate financial returns and demand considerable resilience and patience to realize their value. To tackle this challenge, we adopt a strategic marketing approach, wherein we articulate how heritage-centric activities—such as curating exhibitions, producing scholarly publications, and hosting culturally enriching events—contribute significantly to reinforcing the brand’s equity. We highlight how these investments deepen the brand narrative and enrich its historical
context, which not only broadens its appeal across
diverse demographics but also strengthens client trust and loyalty.

This strategy involves a persistent advocacy for the critical role that heritage plays in enhancing the brand’s identity and deepening its connection with the audience. By integrating heritage activities with strategic marketing objectives, we present a compelling case for their relevance and underscore their potential to generate substantial long-term value. This approach ensures that heritage is not seen merely as a retrospective endeavor but as a dynamic facet of the brand that drives growth and sustains its relevance in a competitive and commercially driven industry.

More generally, what are the practices of activating the archive that make more understandable to creative directors, designers and brands stakeholders, the relevance of preserving and displaying heritage?

Leveraging the archive in a manner that underscores its significance requires the implementation of several strategic practices. 

By organizing exhibitions that highlight key pieces from the archives, we offer tangible, visual stories that contextualize the brand’s evolution and its thematic milestones. These curated events also serve as inspiration and educational resources for designers and creative directors, illustrating the potential of past innovations to inform current designs.

Integrating archival elements into current collections can demonstrate the direct influence of heritage
on contemporary fashion. By reinterpreting classic
designs, fabrics, or motifs, designers can bridge the gap between old and new, showing how historical elements can be refreshed for modern consumers. This practice not only honors the brand’s past but solidifies its cultural and aesthetic continuity.

On another note, making the archives accessible through digital platforms can facilitate broader and easier engagement. By digitizing the archive, we allow them to explore historical collections remotely, enhancing their understanding and appreciation of the brand’s depth and breadth. This also serves as a creative resource that can be tapped into at any time, fostering ongoing inspiration and dialogue around heritage pieces.

Another strategy is hosting workshops, talks, and seminars that focus on the importance of the archive, educating and aligning all team members on the value of our heritage. These sessions can cover topics like the craftsmanship behind archival pieces, the history of certain styles, or the evolution of materials, providing deeper insights that can inspire new designs and marketing strategies. This evidently calls for partnerships with fashion schools and cultural institutions, which can also highlight the significance of the archive. These collaborations can lead to new scholarly insights and public exhibitions that raise the profile of the brand’s heritage, showcasing its influence and relevance in broader cultural and historical contexts.

All these approaches, as Francesco explains, work together as gears of the same engine, aiming to “seamlessly integrate [the past] into the fabric of contemporary creativity, ensuring that each new collection resonates with both historical depth and avant-garde artistry.” He points out that the key to continually defining the cutting edge of fashion lies in “this dynamic interplay” that enables the shaping of “a future where our brand’s legacy and innovation advance in unison”. 

As we conclude this interview, new questions about the possibilities and challenges of heritage are spontaneously born. Perhaps all the strategies listed above are a way for brands to reach a new audience, and embrace more pop-culture results? But then what are the possibilities opened by the sharing, albeit mediated and regulated, of archives with the general public? And what are the responsibilities that brands should assume when they expand their audience and engage with new individual and collective identities? But this is probably another interview…

This story is from the second issue of Later, the alumni magazine.

Editor: Ida de Ioanni @__deiom__
Photographer: Iman Salem @imannsalem
Talent: Francesco Pastore

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